Safari 2/16-2/18, 2011

Got to the hotel with about 30 minutes to spare before our first safari. The place we are staying at is right on the edge of the preserve and is very beautiful and kind of tropical. We had a quick lunch - strictly vegetarian food served here - and it was absolutely delicious. Our jeep pulled up and off we went - I have figured out that there is no "normal" driving in India. It is just high speed madness, and this in an open top jeep. There were usually four more people with us so we got to meet many wonderful people from all over the world. After fifteen minutes of driving through town at a crazy pace again dodging animals and vehicles we were in the preserve. We drove through on many paths - saw deer (which I can see in my front yard) and two types of antelope - one of which we had never seen before. We see monkeys and peacocks but not the elusive tiger! After three hours we head back, shower, dinner, and bed - yea, Lauren's new hours are continuing -bed at 9 - up at 6 (yes,AM) also, no television so really an adjustment!
Out at 6:30AM for our morning safari and it is cold out. The hotel provided us with blankets which had hot water bottles inside. What a treat!!
Back in the preserve, drove and drove and Lauren spotted a jackal carrying a rabbit in his mouth - breakfast! More driving and the call went out that a tiger had been spotted. We pulled up and sure enough - a tiger. We could see it even though it was in the brush - vey exciting - but Lauren wasn't satisfied -she wants to see one up close and personal!
Back for breakfast and a little shopping in the town before our afternoon safari. No tiger again but we did see a sloth bear so didn't go home empty handed. Long day - looking forward to dinner and 9PM bedtime.
Another early morning and it is a little colder outside- that hot water bottle felt great! Went to a different area of the preserve this morning and as soon as we got in we spotted a leopard lying on the cliffs next to us. This day was starting out well!! We continued driving and the guide saw tiger footprints so we knew we were close to one. Also, the monkeys and deer give warning sounds when there is a tiger in the area. All of a sudden we look over at the stream that is running along the road and the tiger is in the stream - probably 15-20 feet from us!!! It is a big, but not fully grown male tiger. As we watch, he continues to bathe and drink water in the stream. It was the most amazing experience and I am thrilled I got to share it with Lauren

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Sloth bear




































Between safaris























First, a leopard--











Then, a tiger!!!!

















Our guide











More guides - they had to have a picture with Lauren!





Friendly bird





Sunset

Location:Ranthambore Tiger Preserve, Sawai Modhopur, India

Taj Mahal. 2/14 & 2/15, 2011

The Taj Mahal is so beautiful that any picture we took would not do it justice.
Emperor Shah Jahan built it in 1632 in honor of his wife Mumtaz Mahal who had died in childbirth with their seventeenth child. It is a memorial and both of them are buried there. During the building of the Taj, Shah Jahan was imprisoned by his own son. He lived in a part of the palace that overlooked the Taj and could only watch the construction. His son felt this was a form of torture as he would never visit the site he designed for his wife.















Tower where Shah Jahan watched the building of the Taj


His jail!


His view

Location:Agra, India

Last day in Varanasi. 2/13/2011

We had the day off today so we decided to get Ayurvedic massages.
Lauren is supposed to be doing research on ayurvedic treatments while we are here as one of her school assignments so what better way to do this? Our guide found a place outside of the hotel and made the appointment for us. They sent a taxi to pick us up and off we went thinking we were going to have a spa like experience!! We walked in and there were two wooden tables
-no padding, just blankets on them. Needless to say, not too comfortable but the massages were incredible. First they pounded us with leather mallets soaked in oil heated over some type of propane heater. Next was the massage with about a gallon of oil. I asked what type of oil it was and she told me "Ayurvedic" but I am not convinced it wasn't Mazola or Crisco or some Indian brand of cooking oil!! I guess the bottom line is that it was a great massage and the price was right. $40 for 65 minutes. After that our multi talented therapists did henna tattoos for us on our hands. It turned out to be a fun experience and since we were so relaxed we decided to do another rickshaw ride. We went back to the River Ganges or Ganga as they call it here. This was a thirty minute thrill ride - especially since our driver only had one eye!! He, of course, had a friend who would show us the river, even though we had already been there, but we went along with it. It was actually fun to spend time with a non-professional guide. This one took us to where the bulls and cows live that roam around all day- I could have lived without this experience but animal loving Lauren couldn't wait to see it. Are there words to describe this experience?? NO!!! The crazier thing about just seeing it is that where they live is basically in front of peoples homes. But they are the lucky ones as they get the most cow dung to make cow dung patties to heat their homes!!

Another thirty minute life threatening thrill ride back to the hotel so we can catch an overnight train. Should be interesting!!!

Again, will add more pics later This day was actually two before the camel cart ride.

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Streets of Varanasi


Lauren's henna tattoo

Location:Varanasi, India.

Camel cart ride

Karauli is a little village between the Taj Majal and Jaipur. We stopped there overnight to get the feel of staying in a little village. It was quite an experience. We stayed at a maharaja's home who is there some of the time but not while we were there. It reminded me a little of an incredible place I stayed at in Ireland - a place out of time When we woke in the morning we had a camel cart ride on the agenda Lauren was pretty excited about this and I try almost anything once - I did say "almost"!! The camel pulled up and we hopped on!! It was a 6 x 6 flat wood trailer pulled by a camel- no sides, nothing to hold on to. When we started out the road was flat with only a few potholes. The further we went, the worse it got - big , deep ruts with rocks and stones progressing to a rock path to the city palace which we were going to visit. keep in mind, the cart has big wooden wheels and certainly no shock absorbers and that we were vying for space with pigs, cows, bulls, dogs, goats and other vehicles Not my idea of fun and not too sure we weren't going to fall off the side or just fly off at any moment. Finally got to an amazing palace in the middle of this very rural village and it was worth the ride. The bad news? - camel cart ride back to hotel. Held on to the edge very tightly and made it - what a relief. No chiropractors in Karauli - looks like another massage will soon be in order!
Back in the car today on our way to Ranthambore to go on a safari - Lauren is determined to see a tiger. I'm looking forward to it, as well, and just hoping it's not a camel cart safari!!

Sending this without all of the pictures as there was no room to add Laurens
Camera on my iPad. We are going to work on this and will add more photos later. Her's are much better. She has turned into a great little photographer!!


Bhanwar Vila Palace - our rooms





Camel with driver and a new friend!


Lauren's new friend

Location:Karauli. India

2nd Day In Varanasi

Today we got up before dawn to go back to the river Ganges. We took a boat out on to the river so we could watch the people who come there to bathe and pray. It is also the place where the local laundry services come to wash and dry clothes for people. It is quite a process - they dip the clothes in the river, then put soap on them, twist them, and beat them against stones - then they plunge them in the river to rinse them. They then lay them out on the ghats to dry. As dirty as the Ganges looks, and considering people are bathing in there and filling it full of stuff they offer as karma, it is hard to believe the clothes get clean but our guide said they do - and he said he didn't understand it either.
We then walked through the streets of Old Varanasi which are so narrow you actually come in contact with the bulls as you pass through. There are homes, temples, and shops along the paths.

Next was Sarnath which is where Buddha gave his first speech to his disciples. There is not much left as it was destroyed by the Muslims but the spot where he sat and a small altar are still there. A visit to a buddhist temple and then the Bodhi tree. This tree is a third generation of the original tree under which Buddha is said to have been enlightened.

After our touring was done Lauren and I decided to take a rickshaw ride around the area. This could be one of the biggest thrill rides ever!! You don't know from second to second whether you are going to run in to something or be hit by something - car, truck, bus, rickshaw, or tuk tuk. The driver took us to an Indian market to do a little shopping.

Sunrise on the Ganges


Bath time






Offering karma


Laundry service


Sarnath


Bodhi tree

Location:Varanasi, India

Varanasi

Yesterday we arrived in Varanasi which is the oldest city in India. We left an 8 month old airport in Delhi which had many American shops and arrived
at an airport in Varanasi which was three months old - bright, beautiful and very modern. This did not prepare us at all for the city. As we drove down the road to our hotel we passed everything and anything you can imagine. The streets are.narrow and dusty - there are all kinds of vehicles and it is definitely a case of the most aggressive driver gets to go where he wants. Our driver happened to be very aggressive and quite a few times we were sure he was going to hit a car, tuk tuk, rickshaw, person, or one of the many cows or bulls that randomly run the streets. I have never come in contact with so many bulls in my life or bulls---! Well, the later part might not be true!!!

We visited an ancient Hindu temple and got a blessing from a Hindu priest, which included the red dot on our forehead. Of course we had to pay for this blessing, but what don't you have to pay for here! The Indian people love their tips.

Last night we went to the River Ganges where we took a boat ride. I keep saying that we can't describe what we see but this was even more astounding than Old Delhi. On the banks of the river is the crematory where families come to cremate their dead and, by the way, only men are allowed to do this as the women cry too much and it takes longer. There are piles of sticks with a dead body in between them - they then pour clarified butter and camphor over it to start the fire. It takes about four to five hours for the cremation to be complete and the family stays until it is done. Once the family leaves there are groups of people who go through the ashes looking for valuables - like jewelry and gold teeth. During this process there are again bulls and cows wandering around between the fires. You just can't make this stuff up!!!

We then went further down the river to watch a Hindu religious ceremony. There were seven Hindu priests on platforms while someone sang chants. It was somewhat of a performance as the priests were all in their early twenties and very attractive. Typically a ceremony like this would be performed by one priest but this was very beautiful. Leaving the area is another adventure. It is so crowded - you have to fight the typical crazy traffic as well as hundreds of homeless people with their hands out, carts selling chai tea and food, people trying to sell postcards and statues and this is a street lined with shops selling saris, silks and other beautiful items.
As we walked along, Lauren looked over and there was a bull sitting in one of the stores as a woman shopped for saris!

Even though it is hectic and crowded beyond belief we have never felt afraid or threatened - the people love to see and talk to Americans!

One more day in Varanasi tomorrow --

Delhi airport


-Streets of Varanasi









Ancient Hindu Temple




River Ganges




Cremations


Hindu religious ceremony







Bull in a sari shop?!

Location:Varanasi, India